Flour, sugar….and truffles?

I volunteered at a charity event to benefit cancer research on Wednesday. Twenty accomplished chefs from top restaurants around the country set up tables and offered delicate finger foods to a parade of well-healed guests. I was still trying to finalize my list of ten exceptions—ten non-local items that would round out my truly local diet. I was settled on flour, baking soda, and baking powder (yea pancakes!). But, what else?

As I pondered the question, I realized I was in the presence of a group of men who made their livings manipulating ingredients. Some were considered the best in their field--Marc Vetri, Jonathan Benno, Rocco DiSpirito, and many others. If they were in my situation, which non-local items would they choose? I decided to do an informal survey.

I grabbed a cocktail tray, straightened my tie, and sidled up to Jonathan Benno of PER SE in New York City. I explained my project and asked if I could quote him. “If you could have any local vegetables, fruits, meat, dairy, and herbs, but could only choose five other items of food,” I asked, “what would they be?” Without hesitation, he said, “Salt, flour, sugar and fish.” “And the fifth?” He asked if he could have a moment to think about it. Half an hour later, when I came back to his table to clear some plates, he looked me straight in the eye and said, “Truffles. That’s the fifth”. Now we’re talking.

Next, I introduced myself to Paul Kahn of Blackbird in Chicago. “If you were in my situation,” I asked, “what would your exceptions be?” “Flour and salt,” he said. I offered to get him a drink while he was pondering his last three items. Two beers later, he said he was going to stick with flour and salt. “That’s it?” I asked, “what about sugar?” “You gave me fruit, right?” he said, “What do I need sugar for?”

Paul Dolan, a chef at Talula's Table in Kennett Square, PA – an elite restaurant that accommodates only one table per night – had the most eclectic list. He, too, only took a minute to answer, “salt, ginger, saffron, maple syrup, and juniper berries.” Saffron, juniper berries? This man is living on the edge!

At the end of the night, as the guests trickled out, a few of the chefs found a blender and started mixing drinks. Someone handed me a watermelon margarita. It was simple and deeply satisfying. I realized I might not have watermelon again until the end of the summer when it was in season. I sipped my drink slowly and it burst into my mouth with soft, refreshing sweetness.

The Ten Exceptions

I had just eaten dinner: cream of broccoli soup. The broccoli was picked that afternoon by a student at the University City High School garden. The cream came from the Merrymead farm near Lansdale. It was good soup, round a sweet when the fresh cream hit the tongue. But, it was all I had for dinner. I had three bowls, so I wasn’t hungry. I just wasn’t satisfied. I had run out of truly local food that day, and anyway, I was in the mood for something else, bread or cheese or another familiar comfort.

So, I sat on my roof, grumpy and frustrated. I drank a glass of wine and I smoked a cigarette, my first one in a long while—maybe my forth or fifth since Paris. I looked down at the dog walkers and the rambling checkerboard of backyards. I eyed the cars parked bumper to bumper along both sides of the street. I drank, and I smoked some more, and I realized, with a sorry feeling in my stomach, that if I was going to make it through the summer, I had to make a few more exceptions to my truly local rule.

Early in my planning, I envisioned choosing three or four items that were not available locally and that I just couldn’t live without. Coffee is a morning routine I have no wish to change. It is not possible to cook without salt and pepper. And, in the last few years olive oil has become a similar staple. Also, I have been dating my boyfriend for a few months now and I am meeting some of his family members for the first time. I just couldn’t imagine going to his grandmother’s house and refusing all food and drink: “no thanks Mrs. Heller, actually I don’t eat food or drink liquids. But, other than that I’m completely normal”. Umm, no. I would make an exception for eating with Greg’s family. Alcohol too, would be an exception. Wine is useful in making vinegar and sauces, and it would also be a good way to socialize. I wasn’t going to eat in restaurants; at least I could meet my friends for happy hour.

So, I started out with those few indulgences. Now, I would choose a few more. Life without a satisfying variety of food, I realized, is a dark tunnel I did not want to explore. Maybe I could expand my list to ten exceptions? Ten is a nice round number.

Flour (#1) was first on my list. With that and baking powder (#2) and baking soda (#3) I could make bread, pancakes, pasta, pie crust, and pizza dough. Yeay! Sugar (#4) would open up the realm of desserts and jams. Beans (#5) would allow me to have protein without meat; a vegetarian diet, after all, is one of the most sustainable. That, along with my original exceptions of salt and pepper (#6), olive oil (#7), coffee (#8), alcohol (#9), and occasional dinners with Greg, would make ten.

I went to the kitchen and pulled out flour, fresh buttermilk from Merrymead farm, salt, baking powder and baking soda. In twenty minutes, I had southern-style buttermilk biscuits. I fell asleep with a smile on my face. Maybe my summer experiment could be more than an experiment. Maybe it could be a lifestyle.

Week One

To all of those who checked the blog this week looking for a post, I am sorry for the delay. Last week was the first week of my summer experiment: three months eating food that has not been transported by motor vehicle. It has been wonderfully fun and surprisingly economical. But, my new lifestyle is time consuming and I have spent many hours collecting food. Picking June berries from trees in Clark Park is not as easy as you might think. Every day this week I have been presented with a choice: should I write a blog post or should I forage for food? I have chosen the latter. Hunger is a compelling motivator.

Thankfully, though, I have not gone hungry. In fact, my diet feels decadent. On a typical day, breakfast is an egg from my chicken, strawberries from the University City High School garden (UCHS), and sauteed Swiss chard from my garden. For lunch: deviled eggs with tarragon from my garden, country sausage raised and packaged by the students at Saul High School and sauteed kale (UCHS) with scallions and leeks from Weavers Way Farm. For dinner: a salad of mixed greens, basil and strawberries from my garden, collard greens (UCHS), steak (Saul), and beer from the dock street brewery on 50^th and Baltimore.

Each day I am reminded of the joy of a home cooked meal. Last Tuesday, before dinner, I poured over my favorite cookbook, anticipating the flavors and creating variations. I lapsed into silence as I chopped vegetables and stirred salad dressing. I savored the unhindered sweetness and crunch of fresh fruits and vegetables. I tasted mustard greens for the first time, reveling in their biting, lingering spice. I leaned back at the table and discussed the day's intrigues with my boyfriend. I remembered that good food is as much about company as it is about nourishment. And, as I washed dishes with warm, freely available water, I laughed with the fullness of it all.

Week two, here I come…

More about where I got food this week

My Chicken, undisclosed location, West Philly

My neighbors offered to keep an extra chicken in their coop and give me its eggs. They have three chickens, including mine, in the backyard of their Philadelphia row-house. Each chicken lays about five eggs a week. Their five year-old daughter collects eggs for me and I am "paying" her with vegetables, fruit, and homemade jam from my garden. It is illegal to keep chickens in Philadelphia, and the family has asked to remain anonymous.

University City High School Garden, 3601 Filbert Street, Philadelphia

Located behind University City High School at 36^th and Filbert (one block north of Market Street). To get there take the Market Frankford El to 34^th Street or take the 10 Trolley to 36^th and Market. They offer a variety of fresh seasonal vegetables grown by the school's students. All proceeds benefit the students and the garden program. Debbie, the program coordinator, says they love when people stop by to buy food. Their hours are from 3:00-5:00 pm on most weekdays; Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays are best.

Saul Agricultural High School, 7100 Henry Avenue, Philadelphia

Located at the intersection of Henry Avenue and Cinnaminson street in Northwest Philadelphia. To get there take the 27 or the 9 Bus—the 27 drops you off in front of the school. They sell a variety of meats, poultry and prepared foods, all hormone and antibiotic free. The meat is raised, butchered, and packaged at the school, although it is slaughtered three miles off-site. All proceeds benefit the school. Meat is available October through early June. During the 2007-2008 school year their hours were Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday from 10:40-12:40 am.

Weavers Way Co-op Farm

Located in Mount Airy, Philadelphia near the Washington Lane train stop. To get there take the R7 Regional Rail Train and get off at Washington Lane. Walk towards Washington lane and turn right onto it. Cross the street, walk up a few hundred feet and walk up into the grassy area after the Awbury sign. Most of their produce goes to the Weavers Way Coop in Mount Airy. But, you can also buy produce at the farm itself by making arrangements with Dave the Farmer. They also sell vegetables at the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. Occasionally, one of their employees brings produce to the Reading Terminal by bike or by public transportation. This is how I got my bok choy, baby leeks, scallions and oregano this week.

Linvilla Orchards, 137 West Knowlton Road, Media, PA

Located near the intersection of New Middletown Road and Knowlton Road. To get there take the R3 to the Elwyn Station, then take the 117 bus towards Industrial Park and get off at the intersection of New Middletown Road and Knowlton Road. Go behind the brick Family Dentistry building and follow the dirt path that runs along the edge of the hay field. From there it is an easy, beautiful, fifteen minute walk through peach and apple orchards. I saw deer, butterflies, and birds. Linvilla offers a variety of seasonal fruits and vegetables. You can pick your own or buy freshly picked produce at the on-site market. Bring Tuperware containers to hold the fruit and then stick it in your backpack. I carried 8 pints of strawberries without too much trouble.

From The Ground Up

Starting June 1, this blog will be a record of my summer experiment: three months eating food that has not been transported by motor vehicle. Three months traveling on foot, by bike, or by public transportation to my garden, to urban farms, and to my neighbor's backyard chicken coop. Three months pushing the envelop on urban living and eating.

When I announced my experiment to my friends and neighbors in Philadelphia, I got many strong reactions. At least several people said "that's crazy" or "that's impossible." But, overwhelmingly the response was positive and gushing. Within twenty-four hours, I had dozens of emails with ideas and encouragement. A friend of a friend offered me eggs from her chicken coop. An acquaintance offered to donate twenty-four chickens that had been raised by her elementary school students. Many people suggested local farms that are accessible by public transportation. The message seems clear--many urban residents are yearning to change the way they eat.

In Philadelphia, there is a healthy local-food movement. Many people buy a portion of their groceries at one of the city's farmers markets. However, the vast-majority of the food at these markets is actually grown outside our immediate region, and transported into the city by car or truck. This food, while more desirable than supermarket goods, is not truly local. The energy required to transport this meat, dairy, and produce is significant.

I am keenly aware that Philadelphia could never sustain its population entirely on food grown within the city limits. However, there are many ways that we can increase the proportion of our diets that is truly locally grown--thereby significantly decreasing our energy consumption. All of the community gardens in Philadelphia have long lists of people who have waited years for a garden plot. Meanwhile, we have many vacant lots that lay empty and neglected. Why can't we convert these lots into gardens? In addition, there are a surprising number of local farms that are accessible by public transportation. Is it always necessary to transport food by motor vehicle?

This summer, I intend to give the truly locally grown lifestyle a try. I hope to learn more about the local foods available throughout the city and immediate region, and make this information available to others. I hope to meet people who are thinking about what and how they eat. I hope to spend mornings in the garden and evenings savoring food that nourishes my body and soul.

In short, I am dreaming of a revolution from the ground up.